1 WOOL 
fo  (COTH 

American  Woolen  Co. 
Boston , Mass. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2016  with  funding  from 
Duke  University  Libraries 


https://archive.org/details/fromwooltocloth01amer 


Finished  ( i.oth.  Ready  for  thf.  Case 


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From  Wool 
Co  Cloth 


Published  by 

American  Woolen  Co. 

BOSTON , MASS. 


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Copyright,  1911, 
American  Woolen  Co. 
Boston,  Mass. 


Printed  by 

Livermore  & Knight  Co. 
Providence.  R.  I. 


INTRODUCTIO  Njfflx 


E hundred  and  fifty  years  ago,  in  the 


days  of  homespun,  when  spinning  and 
weaving  were  a prominent  part  of  each 
household's  duties,  the  value  and  quality  of 
cloth  was  a matter  of  common  knowledge. 
Familiarity  with  the  process  of  making  fab- 
rics brought  a general  acquaintance  with 
cloth,  that  does  not  now  exist. 

Many  persons  today  do  not  know  the 
difference  between  worsteds  and  woolens — 
many  more  cannot  distinguish  between  those 
of  a good  and  those  of  an  inferior  grade. 
This  ignorance  of  quality  is  not  to  be  won- 
dered at  when  we  consider  that  what  was 
once  a part  of  household  work  has  become  a 
great  national  industry. 

The  inability  to  judge  cloth  is  a matter 
not  only  detrimental  to  the  interests  of  the 
consumer,  but  also  to  those  of  the  manufac- 
turer. No  reputable  manufacturer  can 
afford  to  give  the  consumer  less  than  the  full 
value  for  his  money ; but  that  the  consumer 


P 581 73 


I N T ROD  U CT  ION 


may  know  that  goods  are  as  represented  it  is 
necessary  that  he  should  understand  some- 
thing about  the  process  of  manufacture  and 
thus  be  assisted  in.  determining  the  quality 
of  the  article. 

Appreciating  that  knowledge  brings  dis- 
crimination, that  discrimination  means  the 
selection  and  purchase  of  the  best  goods  in 
any  line,  we  have  prepared  a few  facts  as  to 
the  woolen  industry  of  America,  together 
with  a short  description  of  the  manufacture 
of  worsteds  and  woolens  ((From  Wool  to 
Cloth.  ” 

It  will  be  appreciated  that  limitations  of 
space  make  it  impracticable  to  illustrate  every 
process  used  in  the  manufacture  of  woolen 
and  worsted  cloth,  but  the  text,  we  are 
confident,  will  make  quite  clear  the  general 
method  of  manufacture. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  CO. 


From  Wool  to  Cloth 


THE  great  clothing-wool-producing 
countries  of  the  world  are  those  of 
Australia,  South  America,  the  United 
States  and  South  Africa. 

The  world’s  wool  production  for  1910 
was  estimated  at  2,952,782,985  pounds, 
of  which  the  United  States  was  supposed 
to  have  raised  about  321,362,750  pounds, 
over  one-tenth  of  the  total. 

It  is  estimated  that  about  two-thirds 
of  the  clothing  wool  used  by  American 
manufacturers  is  raised  in  the  United 
States. 

The  largest  producer  of  the  best  wool, 
that  is  of  the  finest  fibre,  is  Australia,  but 


P 581 73 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


much  of  the  wool  raised  in  the  United 
States,  particularly  in  Ohio,  Pennsyl- 
vania and  West  Virginia,  is  of  very  fine 
quality— fairly  rivalling  that  of  Australia. 

There  is  a great  difference  in  the  qual- 
ities of  different  wools.  The  wools  from 
different  countries  differ,  the  wool  raised 
on  different  breeds  of  sheep  in  the  same 
country  differ,  and  the  wool  raised  on  any 
single  sheep  is  not  all  of  the  same  value 
for  manufacturing  purposes. 

The  best  wool  in  soundness  of  fibre, 
softness  and  evenness  of  length,  comes 
from  the  shoulders  and  sides  of  the  sheep. 

When  the  fleece  is  removed  from  the 
sheep  by  a skillful  shearer,  the  wool  sticks 
together,  and  the  whole  fleece  may  be 
spread  out  like  the  skin  of  the  animal. 
Each  fleece  is  tied  up  separately,  and  the 
wool  is  shipped  in  bags  or  bales,  con- 
taining from  one  hundred  to  five  hundred 
pounds  each. 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


When  wool  is  received  at  the  factory 
it  is  in  fleeces,  and  each  fleece  contains 
different  kinds  of  fibres — long  and  short — 
coarse  and  fine,  and  it  is  necessary  that 
these  should  be  sorted  into  different  kinds 
or  grades,  as  may  be  desired — perhaps 
six  or  eight  different  kinds,  according  to 
the  particular  uses  to  which  the  different 
qualities  are  to  be  put. 

The  fleece  is  spread  out  on  a table, 
the  center  of  which  is  covered  with  wire 
netting,  and  through  this  netting  part  of 
the  dust  and  other  matter  from  the  wool 
falls  while  the  sorting  is  going  on.  Sort- 
ers tear  with  the  hands  the  different 
parts  of  the  fleece  from  each  other  and 
separate  them  into  piles,  according  to 
their  different  qualities. 

All  unwashed  wool  contains  a fatty  or 
greasy  matter  called  yolk,  which  is  a 
secretion  from  the  skin  of  the  sheep.  The 
effect  of  this  yolk  is  to  prevent  the  fibres 


Wool.  Sorting 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


of  the  wool  from  matting,  except  at  the 
ends,  where,  of  course,  it  collects  dust, 
and,  forming  a sort  of  a coating,  really 
serves  as  a protection  to  the  rest  of  the 
fleece  while  on  the  sheep’s  back. 

After  the  wool  is  sorted  it  is  next 
cleansed  or  scoured,  in  order  to  remove  all 
this  yolk,  dirt  and  foreign  matter,  and  this 
is  accomplished  by  passing  the  wool,  by 
means  of  automatic  rakes,  through  a wash- 
ing machine,  consisting  of  a set  of  three  or 
four  vats  or  bowls,  which  contain  a cleans- 
ing solution  of  warm,  soapy  water,  until 
all  the  grease  and  dirt  have  been  removed. 

Each  bowl  has  its  set  of  rollers,  which 
squeezes  out  the  water  from  the  wool 
before  it  passes  into  the  next  bowl.  Hav- 
ing passed  through  the  last  bowl  and  set 
of  rollers,  the  wool  is  carried  on  an  apron 
made  of  slats  on  chains,  to  the  drying 
chamber,  called  the  dryer,  where  is  taken 
out  most  of  the  moisture. 


Wool  Scouring 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


The  wool  is  now  blown  through  pipes 
or  carried  on  trucks  to  the  carding  room. 

From  this  point  the  wool  follows  one 
of  two  different  processes  of  manufac- 
ture— that  of  making  into  worsteds,  or 
that  of  making  into  woolens. 

Speaking  in  a general  way,  worsted 
fabrics  are  made  of  yarns  in  which  the 
fibres  all  lie  parallel,  and  woolens  are 
made  of  yarns  in  which  the  fibres  cross 
or  are  mixed.  Ordinarily,  worsteds  are 
made  from  long  staple  wools,  and  woolens 
from  short  staple  wools. 


Gilling  after  Carding 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


Worsteds 


HE  next  process  in  the  manufacture 


of  worsteds  is  carding.  In  this  pro- 
cess the  wool  is  passed  between  cylinders 
and  rollers,  from  which  project  the  ends  of 
many  small  wires.  These  cylinders  re- 
volve in  opposite  directions.  The  result 
is  the  opening,  separating  and  straight- 
ening of  the  fibres;  and  the  wool  is  de- 
livered in  soft  strands,  which  are  taken 
off  by  the  doffer  comb  and  wound  upon 
a wooden  roll  into  the  shape  of  a large  ball, 
known  as  a card-ball  or  card-sliver,  or 
put  into  a revolving  can.  The  sliver 
from  a number  of  these  balls  or  cans  is  now 
taken  and  put  through  what  is  known  as 
the  gilling  machine,  which  to  a degree 
straightens  the  fibres. 

From  the  gilling  machine  the  wool 
comes  off  in  soft  strands.  Four  strands 
are  then  taken  to  the  balling  machine 


Gilling  and  Making  Top  after  Combing 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 

where  is  made  a large  ball,  ready  for  the 
combing.  It  takes  eighteen  of  these  balls 
to  make  a set  or  fill  up  the  comb. 

By  means  of  the  comb  the  fibre  is  still 
further  straightened  out,  the  short  stock 
and  noil,  or  nibs,  are  removed,  and  when 
the  sliver  comes  from  the  combs  most  of 
the  fibres  are  parallel  to  each  other.  A 
number  of  the  slivers  taken  from  the 
comb  are  then  put  through  two  further 
operations  of  gilling,  and  wound  into  a 
large  ball,  which  is  called  a finished  top. 

The  dyeing  is  done  in  three  ways  — 
in  the  top,  in  the  thread  or  skein  after 
being  spun,  or  in  the  piece  after  it  is 
woven.  If  the  wool  is  to  be  stock  dyed — 
that  is,  dyed  in  the  top — it  is  sent  to  the 
dyehouse  to  be  dyed  the  shade  required, 
and  afterwards  returned  to  be  gilled  and 
re-combed  ready  for  the  drawing. 

Up  to  this  point  there  has  been  no  twist 
given  to  the  wool,  nor  any  appearance  of 


Reducer — English  Drawing 


Gilling — 

FIRST  OPERATION 

English  Drawing 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


a thread.  The  top,  the  soft  untwisted 
end,  is  now  run  through  the  drawdng 
machine,  the  process  sometimes  consisting 
of  nine  distinct  operations,  and  is  drawm 
and  redrawn  until  reduced  to  the  size 
required  for  its  special  purpose;  and  the 
stock  is  then  delivered  to  the  spinning 
room  on  spools,  and  is  called  roving. 

In  the  spinning  the  process  of  drawdng 
continues  until  the  twisted  thread  is 
reduced  to  the  size  required,  which,  either 
singly  or  twdsted  together  in  two,  three 
or  four  strands,  is  to  be  used  for  weaving. 

The  yarn  is  then  very  carefully  in- 
spected, and  all  imperfections  which 
would  show  in  the  finished  goods  are 
removed,  and,  if  it  is  to  be  dyed  in  the 
skein,  the  yarn  is  taken  to  a reel,  where 
the  skeins  are  made  ready  for  the  dye- 
house. 

The  threads  must  nowr  be  prepared 
for  the  loom,  in  order  that  the  actual 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


weaving  may  be  done.  The  thread  is 
used  in  two  ways  in  weaving — as  warp, 
which  is  the  thread  which  runs  lengthwise 
of  the  cloth,  and  as  filling,  or  woof,  which 
runs  across  the  cloth  from  side  to  side. 

The  warp  threads — the  threads  which 
run  lengthwise  of  the  cloth — are  sized 
and  wound  upon  large  reels,  and  from 
these  transferred  to  a large  wooden  roll 
called  the  warp  beam,  which  holds  all  the 
warp  threads,  usually  several  thousands. 

The  filling  threads  are  put  on  shuttle 
bobbins  and  placed  in  the  shuttles  to  be 
refilled  by  the  operatives  as  required,  and 
as  the  weaving  progresses. 

The  warp  beam  is  then  taken  to  the 
drawing-in  room,  where  these  several 
thousand  threads  are  drawn  through  wire 
heddles  in  a frame  called  the  harness,  then 
drawn  through  a wire  reed.  The  com- 
pleted warp  beam  is  now  ready  for  the 
loom. 


English  Cap  Spinning 


Beaming  and  Yarn  Inspecting 


Scouring  Cloth 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


The  harnesses  are  placed  in  the  loom, 
and  by  means  of  what  is  called  the  “ head- 
motion,”  part  of  the  threads  are  raised  and 
part  are  lowered.  This  allows  the  filling 
shuttles  to  pass  above  some  threads  and  be- 
low others,  filling  out  the  pattern  required. 

The  cloth,  having  been  made  in  such 
length  as  is  desired,  is  taken  from  the  loom, 
and, by  what  is  known  as  burlingand  mend- 
ing, any  knots  or  threads  woven  in  wrong- 
ly are  removed,  and  any  imperfections 
which  have  been  discovered  through  a 
careful  examination  are  corrected. 

The  web  or  cloth  is  scoured  or  washed 
and  the  oil  and  any  foreign  matter 
removed. 

Undressed  fabrics  would  now  be  fulled. 
This  consists  of  running  cloth  through  a 
fulling  machine  where,  moistened  with  a 
specially  prepared  soap,  it  is  subjected  to 
a great  pressure  and  pounding,  which 
aids  in  giving  the  required  finish. 


Mending  Perching 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


There  are  different  kinds  of  finishes 
which  require  different  treatments,  and 
it  would  be  impracticable  for  us  to  dwell 
in  detail  upon  this  matter  here. 

If  dyed  in  the  piece,  the  web  or  cloth 
is  taken  to  the  dyehouse  and  dyed. 
It  is  thoroughly  rinsed,  all  moisture  is 
extracted  from  it,  and  it  is  dried. 

After  drying,  the  cloth  is  run  through 
a machine  by  which  it  is  brushed  and 
sheared,  the  brushing  lifting  the  long 
fibres,  and  the  shearing  cutting  them  off 
at  even  length.  The  cloth  is  put  through 
the  press,  which  irons  it  out,  giving  it  the 
lustre  or  the  finish  that  is  desired.  It 
is  examined  again  for  further  imper- 
fections, and  if  such  have  occurred  they 
are  corrected. 

Measuring,  weighing,  rolling  and  tag- 
ging follow,  and  the  cloth  is  packed  and 
ready  for  the  market. 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


Woolens 

WOOLENS  are  made  from  short 
staple  wools,  known  as  clothing 
wools,  and  in  the  finished  woolens  the 
fibres  of  the  yarns  cross  or  are  mingled 
together.  In  the  case  of  woolens,  after 
the  scouring,  it  is  frequently  necessary  to 
remove  burrs  or  other  vegetable  matter 
from  the  wool.  To  accomplish  this  the 
wool  is  dipped  in  a bath  of  chloride  of 
aluminum  or  sulphuric  acid  solution,  then 
the  moisture  is  extracted  and  the  wool  is 
put  through  a drier,  where  the  temper- 
ature must  be  at  least  212  degrees. 
This  heat  carbonizes  the  foreign  sub- 
stance, but  has  little  effect  on  the  animal 
fibres  of  the  wool. 

Next,  an  ingenious  machine  called  the 
burr  picker  removes  the  burr. 

Sometimes  there  is  to  be  a blend  of 
the  wool  with  other  stocks,  and  in  that 


Wooi.kn  Cahijing 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


case  the  several  different  wools  are  mixed 
together. 

Dyeing  of  woolens  is  done  in  three 
ways — in  the  wool,  in  the  thread  after  it 
is  spun,  or  in  the  piece  after  it  is  woven. 
If  the  wool  is  to  be  “dyed  in  the  wool” 
it  is  now  conveyed  to  the  dyehouse,  dyed 
the  shade  required,  then  returned  to 
the  mixing  room. 

During  the  process  of  scouring,  when 
the  yolk  was  removed,  a large  part  of  the 
natural  oil  of  the  wool  was  also  elimi- 
nated, and,  in  order  to  restore  this  lubri- 
cant, the  wool  is  sprinkled  with  an  oil 
emulsion,  and  the  mixing  picker  thor- 
oughly blends  the  wools. 

From  here  the  wool  goes  to  the  card- 
room,  and  by  means  of  the  carding 
machine  the  fibres  are  carded  and  drawn 
and  delivered  to  the  finisher  in  a broad, 
flat  sheet.  By  means  of  the  condenser 
it  is  divided  into  narrow  bands,  and  the 


Woolen  Mule  Spinning 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


wool — free  as  yet  from  twist — comes  out 
in  soft  strands.  These  strands  or  threads 
are  called  roping. 

Now  comes  the  mule  spinning.  The 
roping  passes  through  rolls  by  which  it 
is  drawn  and  twisted  to  the  size  required, 
and  wound  on  paper  cop  tubes  or 
bobbins.  Such  of  the  yarn  as  is  to  be 
used  for  warp  is  then  spooled  from  the 
bobbins  to  dresser  spools.  It  is  sized 
and  wound  upon  large  reels;  from  these 
transferred  to  the  warp  beam,  as  in  the 
case  of  worsteds. 

The  processes  of  drawing-in,  prepa- 
ration for  weaving,  burling  and  mending- 
are  practically  the  same  as  in  the  case 
of  worsteds. 

The  finishing  processes  of  woolens, 
like  the  finishing  processes  of  worsteds, 
vary  with  different  fabrics,  some  fabrics 
being  scoured  and  cleansed  in  the  washers 
before  fulling,  others  going  to  the  fulling 


Slubbing  and  Yarn 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


mill  without  cleansing.  After  fulling,  the 
cloth  is  again  washed  and  rinsed,  and  if 
necessary  to  remove  any  vegetable  fibres, 
it  is  carbonized. 

Napping  or  gigging  raises  the  fibres  to 
the  nap  desired.  Gigging  is  done  by 
means  of  a wire  napping  machine  or 
teasel  gig,  which  raises  the  ends  of  the 
fibres  on  the  face  of  the  cloth.  The 
teasel  is  a vegetable  product  about  the 
shape  of  a pine  cone,  and  it  is  interesting 
to  note  that  no  mechanical  contrivance 
has  ever  been  invented  to  equal  it  for 
the  purpose. 

The  napping  which  has  been  raised  by 
the  teasel  is  sheared  or  cut  to  a proper 
length  by  machine.  The  cloth  is  pressed, 
and,  if  it  is  desired  to  finish  itwith  lustre,  it 
is  wound  upon  copper  cylinders  and  steam 
is  forced  through  it  at  a high  pressure. 

Next  the  cloth  is  dyed,  if  it  is  to  be 
piece- dyed — that  is,  dyed  in  the  piece.' 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


If  the  cloth  is  a mixture,  the  wool  was 
dyed  immediately  after  the  scouring. 
In  worsteds  the  dyeing  is  done  either  just 
after  it  has  been  subjected  to  the  first 
combing  processes,  or  the  yarn  is  dyed  in 
the  skein  or  hank. 

. In  the  dry  finishing  the  cloth  is 
finished  with  various  kinds  of  finishes 
desired,  and  it  is  steamed,  brushed, 
sheared  and  pressed.  Another  examina- 
tion for  any  imperfections  or  defects 
follows;  the  cloth  is,  measured,  packed 
and  tagged  and  is  ready  for  the  market. 


The  difference  between  worsteds  and 
woolens  is  principally  that  in  the  threads 
or  yarns  from  which  worsteds  are  made 
the  fibres  of  the  wool  lie  parallel,  one  to 
another,  being  made  from  combed  wool, 
from  which  the  short  fibres  have  been 


FROM  WOOL  TO  CLOTH 


removed ; and  woolens  are  made  from 
yarns  in  which  the  fibres  cross  and  are 
matted  and  intermixed.  When  finished 
the  effect  of  worsteds  and  woolens  is 
materially  different.  Upon  examination 
it  will  be  found  that  the  worsted  thread 
resembles  a wire  in  evenness,  while  the 
woolen  thread  is  uneven  and  irregular. 

A worsted  fabric  when  finished  lias  a 
clear,  bright,  well  defined  pattern,  seems 
close  and  firmly  woven,  and  is  of  a pro- 
nounced dressy  effect;  while  woolen  cloths 
are  softer,  they  are  more  elastic,  the 
colors  are  more  blended,  the  threads  are 
not  so  easily  distinguishable  and  the  gen- 
eral effect  is  duller. 


■ ■ 


About  the  AMERICAN 
Woolen  Company 


'T'HE  AMERICAN  WOOLEN  COM- 
PANY  is  the  largest  manufacturer 
of  woolens  and  worsteds  in  the  world. 
It  owns  and  controls  34  mills,  employs 
30,000  hands,  has  a payroll  of  $13,000,000 
annually  and  has  a total  output  of  all 
classes  of  fabrics  of  50,000,000  yards  per 
annum. 

It  is  interesting  to  consider  that  the 
50,000,000  yards  of  woolen  fabrics  made 
annually  by  the  American  Woolen  Com- 
pany would  make  a belt  around  the 
world,  and  would  leave  a length  besides 
which  would  extend  from  Boston  across 
the  American  continent,  overlapping  San 
Francisco  and  reaching  many  miles  into 
the  Pacific  Ocean;  if  all  the  pieces  of 
woolen  fabrics  made  in  a year  by  the 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  CO. 


American  Woolen  Company  were  placed 
end  to  end  this  long  strip  would  extend 
nearly  one-eighth  of  the  mean  distance 
from  the  earth  to  the  moon. 

This  Company  buys  all  its  wool  and 
supplies  of  every  kind  direct.  Its  mills 
are  fitted  with  the  most  modern  and  up- 
to-date  machinery.  Its  designers  are  the 
most  able  that  can  be  procured.  The 
managers  and  superintendents  are  men 
of  years  of  experience  in  the  worsted  and 
woolen  manufacturing  business  — who 
know  the  business  from  beginning  to 
end — and  were  chosen  for  their  ability 
and  knowledge. 

This  Company  employs  skilled  help, 
and  makes,  in  a large  variety  of  patterns, 
woolen  and  worsted  cloths  for  Men’s 
Wear,  Women’s  Wear  and  various  pur- 
poses; but  whatever  the  goods,  they  are 
among  the  best  of  all  grades  from  the 
lowest  to  the  highest  priced. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  CO. 


Clear-sighted  management  and  un- 
equaled purchasing  power,  experienced 
buyers,  able  designers,  efficient  equip- 
ment, expert  operatives,  all  these  unite 
in  producing  goods  unexcelled  on  an 
economical  basis;  thus  the  public  is  able 
to  obtain  in  the  products  of  the  American 
Woolen  Company  the  very  best  goods 
that  can  be  made — goods  made  honestly 
and  conscientiously  from  the  best  of 
materials  and  in  the  most  attractive 
and  fashionable  designs- — at  the  lowest 
prices  compatible  with  the  quality  of  the 
goods  manufactured. 

This  Company  has  shown  by  its  own 
manufactures  that  goods  of  as  high  qual- 
ity and  attractiveness,  along  its  individ- 
ual line,  can  be  produced  in  America  as 
anywhere  in  the  world. 


AMERICAN  WOOLEN  CO. 


SELLING  ORGANIZATION 

THE  American  Woolen  Company  does 
not  sell  its  goods  through  commission 
houses,  but  through  its  own  selling 
organization, 

The  headquarters  of  this  great  selling 
organization  are  in  New  York,  with 
branches  in  all  important  trade  centers. 

Its  New  York  salesrooms  are  in  the 
American  Woolen  Company  Building, 
which  covers  the  block  between  Eigh- 
teenth and  Nineteenth  Streets  on  Fourth 
Avenue,  New  York  City — a building 
erected  with  special  reference  to  its  serving 
as  the  New  York  home  of  The  American 
Woolen  Company  and  the  headquarters 
of  its  distributing  organization. 

Something  of  the  amount  of  detail 
necessary  to  properly  transact  the  dis- 
tributing, as  well  as  the  manufacturing, 


parts  of  this  business  may  be  appreciated 
when  it  is  taken  into  consideration  that 
more  than  30,000  styles  of  fabrics  are 
shown  each  season. 


m 


T behooves  you,  it  behooves  every 
American,  when  buying  cloth,  ordering 
clothes  from  the  tailor  or  purchasing  cloth 
at  the  shop,  to  specify  and  call  for  the 
products  of  this  Company. 


THE  AMERICAN  WOOLEN 
COMPANY 


The  tabulations  are  given  for  the  benefit  of  those  who 
may  be  interested  in  the  statistics  of  woolen  manufacture. 


Magnitude  of  Woolen  and  Worsted 
Manufacture 


Number  of  establishments 

913 

Capital 

$415,465,000 

Cost  of  materials  used 

$273,466,000 

Salaries  and  wages  .... 

$79,214,000 

Miscellaneous  expenses 

$21,347,000 

Value  of  product 

$419,826,000 

Value  added  by  manufacture  (products 
less  cost  of  materials) 

$146,360,000 

Employees: 

Number  of  salaried  officials  and  clerks 

5,325 

Average  number  of  wage-earners  em- 
ployed during  the  year  , 

162,914 

Wool  Product  of  the  United  States 


Year 

Pounds 

Year 

Pounds 

1891 

307,401,507 

1902 

316,341,032 

1892 

333,018,405 

1903 

287,450,000 

1893 

348,538,138 

1904 

291,783,032 

1894 

325,210,712 

1905 

295,488,438 

1895 

294,296,726 

1906 

298,715,130 

1896 

272,474,708 

1907 

298,294,750 

1897 

259,153,251 

1908 

311,138,321 

1898 

266,720,684 

1909 

328,110,749 

1899 

272,191,330 

1910 

321,362,750 

1900 

288,636,621 

1911 

318,547,900 

1901 

302,502,382 

Imports  of  Wool  into  the  United  States 


Year 

Pounds 

Year 

Pounds 

1891 

129,303,648 

1902 

166,576,966 

1892 

148,670,652 

1903 

177,137,796 

1893 

172,433,838 

1904 

173,742,834 

1894 

55,152,585 

' 1905 

249,135,746 

1895 

206,081,890 

1906 

201,688,668 

1896 

230,911,473 

1907 

203,847,545 

1897 

350,852,026 

1908 

125,980,524 

1898 

132,795,302 

1909 

266,409,304 

1899 

76,736,209 

1910 

263,928,232 

1900 

155,918,455 

1911 

137,647,641 

1901 

103,583,505 

Wool  Retained  for  Consumption 
in  the  United  States 


Year 

Pounds 

Year 

Pounds 

1891 

435,848,459 

1902 

465,851,407 

1892 

452,562,140 

1903 

489,966,914 

1893 

501,141,748 

1904 

458,010,031 

1894 

397,193,069 

1905 

538,357,130 

1895 

524,722,428 

1906 

491,534,247 

1896 

512,235,982 

1907 

499,115,927 

1897 

614,626,136 

1908 

418,648,811 

1898 

389,322,582 

1909 

574,023,650 

1899 

329,361,558 

1910 

587,983,508 

1900 

420,197,228 

1911 

450,804,692 

1901 

388,430,059 

It  will  be  noticed  that  the  amounts  mentioned  in  above  table,  in 
any  one  year,  are  not  equal  to  the  sum  of  the  amounts  given  as 
"Imports  of  Wool  into  the  United  States”  and  "Wool  Product  of  the 
United  States"  for  the  same  year.  This  is  accounted  for  by  the  fact 
that  some  of  the  wool  which  is  imported,  as  well  as  some  of  the  wool 
which  is  raised  in  this  country,  is  exported  and  not  used  in  the  United 
States. 


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